Vitamin C
After sunscreen, my second skincare recommendation is always Vitamin C. The plethora of Vitamin C skincare products available can be overwhelming, but before diving into my favorites, let’s delve into the science behind this potent antioxidant.
The antioxidant properties of Vitamin C make it an exceptional shield against UV exposure. Surprisingly, oral Vitamin C intake doesn’t offer the strongest benefits. Instead, incorporating a diet rich in Vitamin C from various fruits and vegetables and complementing it with nightly application of a Vitamin C serum is more effective.
At the cellular level, skin fibroblasts rely heavily on Vitamin C for collagen synthesis and regulation of collagen-elastin balance in the dermis. Skin keratinocytes accumulate Vitamin C to shield themselves from UV damage. Studies on these cells grown in culture demonstrate that Vitamin C influences the gene expression of antioxidant enzymes and promotes healthier epithelial growth. While aging studies can be subjective, objective studies on collagen deposition and wrinkle depth have shown significant improvements with daily application of topical Vitamin C.
However, not all skincare products deliver as promised. It’s crucial to choose reputable products from reliable sources. Vitamins, especially Vitamin C, are sensitive and easily damaged by light, temperature, and production processes. Genuine products may come at a slightly higher price, especially as the concentration of Vitamin C increases.
Among my favorites are Jan Marini C Esta, Obagi 15% serum for a potent source, and Alumier’s Vitamin C, which you activate prior to use. For more accessible options, consider CeraVe or L’Oreal’s Vitamin C serums.
Vitamin A Derivatives
Now, let’s talk about the next essential addition to your skincare regimen after sunscreen and Vitamin C: Vitamin A derivatives, commonly known as retinoids.
Retinoids, including retinols, are all forms of Vitamin A. Retinols, approved by the FDA in the 1970s to treat acne, have potent anti-aging properties. They accelerate surface skin cell turnover and boost collagen production, improving acne, skin tone, and reducing fine lines and wrinkles.
In general, prescription retinoids are stronger than retinols. Both come in various formulations and strengths, with higher strength products resulting in faster skin cell turnover. However, they may also cause intolerable side effects like drying and skin irritation, particularly for those with sensitive skin.
Individuals with allergies or excessive dryness should start with lower dose retinols, gradually increasing strength as tolerated. Those with more significant skin issues, such as active acne or scarring, can advance to higher strength formulations.
While people of all skin colors can benefit from retinoids, individuals with darker skin tones should be vigilant about potential irritation to avoid post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Starting with lower strengths and gradually increasing can help minimize this risk.
Products containing retinoids are suitable for individuals with mild acne, pigmentation irregularities, or mild fine lines and wrinkles. It’s common for patients to want to start with a high strength tretinoin (Retin A) immediately, but starting with a lower strength formula and gradually building up to full strength Retin A is advisable.
Because retinoids can increase skin sensitivity to the sun, always use sun protection during the day, including seeking shade, wearing sun-protective clothing, and applying sunscreen containing titanium dioxide and/or zinc oxide.
Incorporating Vitamin C and retinoids into your skincare routine can unlock the secret to radiant, youthful-looking skin. Choose products wisely, stay consistent, and enjoy the transformative benefits these skincare powerhouses have to offer.
